For the fabrication of new bumper brackets, begin by lining the bumpers up to the body, using something to stabilize them. Check and make sure that the body is level on each side and that the bumper is level with the body. After you have made sure that they fit well, measure the clearances and remove the bumper from your vehicle. Following that, flip it upside down.
First of all, run a 1/8 thick flat bar vertically across the bumper's deepest channel and stitch weld it in place. On the edge of the lower section, run and stich weld a vertical strip of the same material, then form the foundation by running a horizontal flat bar over each section. Run some bolts through pre-drilled holes. Then, attach tighten, and weld some nuts into place. Tighten the outer nut first, then weld the inside nut. After that, remove the bolt after loosening the unwelded nut.
Next, for the mounting flange of the bracket, measure then cut some 1/8th thick plate metal. Drill holes and mount it accordingly. It is now time to attach the bumper and check the fit. You can also design and mock up some brackets on chip board to check out the effect. Cut the sides out using a nibbler in the 1/8th thick material. Lay out the template and after spraying blue-dykem, scribe it on the sheet. Turn the driver side over and cut a section matching the bracket angle, and tack weld it in place using a 90° magnet holder and repeat this on the other side.
Now, cut another plate in order to fit the longer section. Beside the vise grip, you will see the small round tubing, which will help hide the fasteners in the bracket at the bolt locations. After all are welded properly, you can start the first fitting to the bumper and frame. Following measuring, drill some holes for mounting and mount the bracket with the help of wing nut clecos.
Mark the outer bracket's perimeter onto the mounting plate, and then remove the assembly. After then, clamp and weld them together, through the pre-drilled holes which are larger, for better welding penetration to the plate. For the corners, weld and ground them down as well. Stitch the metal properly so that the unit can be strengthened to be tougher.
Now, use the tubing that was completed just now to hide all the the fasteners. In order for the metal to be placed on the bracket's opposite, there are angle cuts for the purpose and you can close them in flat. After this, you are now ready to work on the front bumper instead. You will notice that both the rear and the front frame horns are open on the ends, hence, you can try making a slide plate, which will be welded by some nuts so that it can be attached to the brackets and the weight of the bumper can be supported.
Now, all you have to do is to insert a bolt and then tighten the nut down prior to welding, so that it can act as a clamp. At this point, you will need to make only a few stitches. In order for the threads to start easily, counter sink the bolt holes slightly. Drill four holes in the frame, two for attachment of bolts and two for welding, and then slip the nut retainer into the frame. After that, tighten and weld them in place. Many people will have the ability to perform these techniques spelled out in this article but for some part of the work may be best performed by a reputable street rod shop.
Finally, you have the fronts and you are ready to check placement. Together with the freshly created bracket, tack the fastener-tubing spacers in place, to the base plate. Then, wrap the metal around the bracket's fastener side, and then weld it in place. Ground them smooth and bead them. Then only install them with case. Repeat this at the rear and you can enjoy having the look of a nice bracket which also has perfect toughness and sturdiness.
Welcome back my friends to a show that never ends, look inside, look inside at the ultimate Street Rod Shop tour at Jeff Lilly Restorations. Taking the Car Building world by storm one project at a time.
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